Bigmac on Rivendell Redwoods & Big frames

Bigmac responding to Brons2, a 6' 7" rider looking for help on getting the right frame for his size.

William

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One thing you need to be aware of with Rivendell sizing is that frame sizes are listed by measuring ST from center BB-top of TT @ seatlug. Most frames, including Serotta are measure c-c thus a 68cm Riv is roughly 66.5cm Serotta. Honestly, ST length is the least important frame dimension, imo, check out TT length, STA(or setback), cs length and front center for proper fit. Redwood (big Rambulliet) is a very nicely constructed frame and relatively stoudt for a production model. If you're riding is limited to Texas, especially the Dallas area and you have even a marginally smooth cadence, i suspect the Redwood is about the best value in a quality frame you will find. I would have just 2 reservations if I were in your shoes; the quill stem and frame durability.

You are obviously a very large rider, considerably bigger than your average rider and if you have large upper body build you likely generate excessive torque on bars/stem. I am 30lbs your junior, albeit very large and powerful upper body build, and I have bent my share of forged alloy stems. I love the threadless stems and particularly a custom fillet brazed steel stem, they are far less prone to flex/bending than most production gear, particularly the current plethora or weight weenie sub 200g stems which should be avoided by anybody your size (actually they should be avoided by everybody but let's not go there right now). The Redwood uses a threaded fork-quill stem setup, it may be fine for your size if you are gentle on torqueing bars and you avoid stem extensions beyond 11cm max. The other alternative is Riv sells a Nitto-produced lugged steel stem which is apparently extremely stiff and strong, although extraordinarily pricey to boot (>$200). Salsa also offers a TIG welded cr-mo stem but it has minimal quill length and is very soft flexing, ime. Of course Serotta and most other builders are now employing threadless setups in which case I would suggest you purchase a custom filet brazed steel stem of any necessary length, be sure builder of said stem is aware of your size, strength and mass.

The frame durability may be a moot point if you are remotely smooth pedaller and ride in relative flatlands of Texas. If you intend to ride competitively, likely sprinting would be your strength or travel with bike for riding in more vertically challenging terrain, I suspect the Redwood is insufficiently stout in bottom-end. I have personally ridden a 64cm Rambu and honestly felt the lateral movement at BB was sufficient enough while climbing that frame would have failed within couple thousand miles. This however does not make it a bad choice for you riding the flatlands, I could have spun all day on flat ground and enjoyed the frames ability to smooth weathered roadways, its just not a suitable climbing or sprinting frame for bigger, heavier riders. Frame builders must make certain choices for production bikes. If one were to build a production frame intended for a rider your size performing out of saddle sprints or hard climbs, the poor "diminutive average" rider fitting same size frame, weighing 200lbs would likely feel beat up, unable to produce a desirable amount of frame flex. I suspect the 68cm Riv production frames were built around former Riv employee Bhima who stood at least 6'6" but weighed maybe 185lbs...soaked through in the rain If you can find a demo Redwood/Rambu to take for a 30-40 minute spin, that would be an invaluable experience, otherwise frankly anything short of a full custom frame is a crapshoot. FWIW: Serotta makes great bigboy frames, probably the best anywhere, if you can afford it they are your safest choice.

Ride on

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Jim:

My apologies for my previous error in thinking you were located in or around Dallas. I had read the Richardson, Tx shops mentioned and errantly assumed you were located in that area. I do know the distance to Austin is substantial, my inlaws are currently in Richardson and my wife grew up in Plano.

Good to hear you got a fine deal on a Cannondale, if it fits well that is a very good choice for someone of your size. i do believe C'dale has discontinued production of such large frames, you buying an NOS model should have no negative impact, in fact I would say you are a very fortunate fellow.

The wheel issue is fairly common one for folks of all sizes, at least if wheel is poorly built as I suspect. The spokes should have been pretensioned during build -- brought to full tension and trued, then backed off and retensioned and trued -- which I suspect was not done. Your ride simply stretched the spokes as would have occurred with a properly constructed wheel. It does not sound as if significant damage was done to rim so in truth I suspect the wheel could be properly retrued using existing wheel components and you'll be good to go...up to a point. These wheels are really a compromise for your specific needs that will likely require considerable maintainence, more than I would consider acceptable: retrue every 800-1k miles and periodic replacement of individual driveside rear spokes due to breakage. Solutions? Bontrager Aurora OSB rear rim. Available for $39 at any Trek dealer, some may even stock them, others could order with maybe 1 week wait. This is hands down the best available clincher rim on market -- welded joint, assymetric offset drilling, minimal decals/logos -- and its roughly 1/2 the cost of Open Pro/CXP33. Use DT straight 14 guage spokes laced 3x on driveside, DT 14g (you could opt for butted 14/15/14 but honestly that's a few cents more per spoke for absolutely zero benefit) laced 2x on left side w/Bontrager rim, the result will be nearly identical spoke length and tension on each side which equals a very torsionally strong and durable rear wheel. This wheel should be stronger torsionally than a traditional 36H rim of similar mass laced with similar spokes. The next step up would be a Bontrager Fairlane(or Maverick as they have recently changed model names but design is unchanged) OSB 36H rear rim. A bit wider and heavier rim (525g or thereabouts), still welded at joint and assymetric drilled but would require a new 36H rear hub to replace your current 32H unit. Personally, I would opt for the 32H setup, however you will need a much more skilled wheelsmith to perform the build than the one who laced the current setup. Speak to members of local cycling clubs for good recommendations of skilled local wheelsmith's (do NOT go mailorder!), I'm sure you will find at least one in a city like Austin.

Your pedal issues could be a bit more troublesome. The best solution would be to have a friend observe you from behind as you pedal at a normal cadence. Alternatively, use a video camera set at hs shutter on a tripod placed again just behind bicycle just left or right of rear wheel with bike on a stationary trainer. Be sure you are sufficiently stretched and warmed up, pedalling in a normal cadence. Now my suspicion is that you are pronating (or supinating as I forget which is which) wherein the ankle is rolling inward at bottom of stroke. This is a biomechanical issue that could be related to saddle height and/or fitness, strength or physiological issues. If your observer or video camera shows lateral ankle movement, this is in fact your problem, not the pedals per say. Solutions? Lowering saddle a bit can help, generally as your fitness improves, some stretching/yoga is highly recommended as well, you will again want to elevate your saddle for more efficient pedalling stroke. You may also need to experiment with orthotics or arch supports. I would recommend you avoid using running shoes while riding, the elevated foam midsoles may exacerbate your problems. If you are not using toe clips with your platform pedals (or even if you are) try a pair of PowerStraps and use the thinnest soled shoes you have...I prefer Mephisto sandals when I use platform pedals -- I find BMX style platforms (MKS brand) with the stubby knubbs hold my feet pretty well -- using PowerStraps for powering up the hills. If you do choose to convert to a clipless style pedal system with requisite shoes, be sure you identify whether an orthodic type device will be required as this will have significant impact on shoe fit choices. Clipless pedals are generally considerably higher q and stackheight (distance from pedal axle center to shoe platform) than platform pedals, with one exception; the Time brand road pedals. If you truly do require high Q pedals, avoid Time and probably look at Speedplay. They offer a model Zero that allows you to limit float rotation (could be very beneficial if you have lots of lateral movement) but they do have a very disconected feel which takes some acclimating and are very wide Q. Look also offers a model with an adjustable q that can be very wide if needed, the balance of pedals are all pretty similar (moderately wide q compared to traditional quill or platform pedals). The last solution could be to add a 1-2mm stainless washer between pedal and crank arm, this however should be a very last case solution given your size/weight to avoid bending of pedal axle. Best of luck to you.

Ride on!